ShopMaster
Site Admin
Joined: 18 Mar 2006
Posts: 227
Location: Royal Oak, MI |
| Mixed media locomotive modeling ? |
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Have you detailed a plastic engine with brass parts ? Or a brass engine with plastic parts ? Or some other unusual combination of materials ?
I call that mixed media locomotive modeling, and it is a good way to detail or build locomotives by using the best parts and (sometimes) easier methods. Some people may be put off by the non-traditional approach, but it's the end result that counts in my book.
So have you done anything like this ? Let us know what you did and how you did it... |
Sat Apr 01, 2006 6:59 pm |
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drhanna
Joined: 04 Apr 2006
Posts: 8
Location: Ohio |
| Mixed media locomotive modeling - PRR K5 4-6-2 |
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Many years ago I built an HO model of PRR K5 4-6-2 number 5698 long before any brass versions were available. I still have it and it is better detailed than any of the brass engines that have been imported. Here is a list of the components with some of the methods used:
Penn Line K4s engine chassis vintage 1962
Added driver spring rigging to frame by drilling frame, press fitting brass
wire into holes and soldering spring detail parts to the wire
Modified side rods to match K5 appearance
Scrathbuilt bottom cover for gear on main driver to protect from dirt
Cary M1a cylinder block-lead alloy, modified for post WWII version of K5
Cary I1s boiler-lead alloy
Penn line K4s cab-epoxied onto boiler after removal of I1s cab, used
coping saw with metal cutting blade for this work
Most of the boiler detail parts and other mounting pins were press fit into
drilled holes. The holes were washed out with acetone or lacquer
thinner. Sears clear windshield sealer adhesive was then applied to the
holes and the pieces or parts were pressed into place. Heat from
soldering piping or other parts to these parts causes the adhesive to
become extremely tough with a very strong joint. There are better
adhesives to use today but the prepartion for adhesive still applies.
Scratch built running boards of Kemtron diamond tread stock, soldered to
flat brass strip press fit into holes drilled into boiler
Replaced lead truck wheels with 33" wheels, 36" wouldn't operate reliably
(the original Penn Line wheels were 28")
Piping originates and ends at the appropriate places/fittings
Flexible piping connections between engine and tender made of small wire
insulation slipped over ends of wire piping
Gem M1 tender by Guild
Scratchbuilt tender floor and center beam per PRR drawings
Scratchbuilt rear tender platform
Scratchbuilt tender water hatch with see through handles
Copious number of detail parts from Kemtron and Cal Scale
Many scratchbuilt detail parts
Engine weight without tender is 37 ounces, it pulls extremely well
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Dave |
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Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:29 pm |
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Brasscrafter
Brakeman
Joined: 12 May 2006
Posts: 24
Location: Toronto, Canada |
Starting from a bowser base and going from there is how I got into scratchbuilding brass locos too, just like drhanna. It would start with detail parts on a bowser body, to cannabalizing same for a new brass cab, to just using the chassis, to now only using the running gear and detail parts. Scratchbuilding sprung trucks is tricky though. I have several of my old mixed engines still around, with that terrible old cast lead boiler from Bowser. I would completely strip the lead boiler of everything but the basic shape, a then just use .002" brass to wrap the boiler for the rivet details, as well as making it easier to attach all of the other brass detail parts. For all of that work, it just got easier to make a new boiler. |
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Sun Jun 18, 2006 4:17 pm |
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Steammodeler
Brakeman
Joined: 30 Aug 2007
Posts: 20
Location: Tampa, Florida |
I model using many materials but perfer brass. Many of my locomotives use aftermarket drive lines or MDC componets. This may be cheating to some but as I'm not included in the rivit counting group it has worked out very well so far. I'm not sure about posting pics on this forum but i'll give it a try.
The above loco was build on a highly modified what ever chassis and represents a Mason Bogie I built from photos. That pic seemed to work out ok so here are a couple more from that build. If anyone is interested I can post a few other project photos of other builds using brass and other materials.
Have a look!!
That will give some idea what I build, if any are interested, I have a few projects that I can share.
James
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Steammodeler
Hurricane Pass Mining & Timber RR Company |
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Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:10 am |
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ShopMaster
Site Admin
Joined: 18 Mar 2006
Posts: 227
Location: Royal Oak, MI |
James,
quote:
I'm not sure about posting pics on this forum but i'll give it a try.
Worked beautifully, as far as I can see. Thanks !
Nicely executed cab, how did you keep your cutouts so clean and square ?
quote:
I'm not included in the rivit counting group
OK, I can understand that. but it shouldn't have been too hard to find an Archbar truck, instead of that modern Andrews type !
(those Calscale Andrews trucks are *very* nice through !)
Thanks for posting your project pictures,
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Dave
http://daveayers.com/Modeling/index.html |
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Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:46 pm |
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Steammodeler
Brakeman
Joined: 30 Aug 2007
Posts: 20
Location: Tampa, Florida |
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 Thanks for the comments Dave!
The cab construction follows a method I use on many of my brass sheet parts. I use Coreldraw to scale a photo, and draw out the basic line art. Print out the sheet and use artist mount spray glue to mount to brass sheeting and also spray glue this to a sheet of common .060 styrene. This prevents excessive tearing and blowout of the brass while being cut using a commercial die saw. (a large jig saw to keep it simple) I use a fine round jewelers blade that cuts in any direction on the saw. In this case the cab was then bent to shape using a box and pan brake. Soldered together with a resistance welder. Any rivit detail is easily added while in the flat development stage after the inital cutout. The paper and styrene is removed using just about any light solvent; I use blanket wash used in the printing industry but even alcohol will work on many of the artist mount adhesives.
As for the rear truck.....yes an archbar would have been a better choice but at the time of this build I didn't have a set in stock and although I live in a pretty large metro area, with several hobbly shops, anything not diesel related doesn't make it to their shelves and ordering anything thru any of them is a 3 month ordeal. I place an order a couple times a year from NWSL, Presision Scale, and a few other quality suppliers covering my projected needs for about a six month span. The archbar is now in stock but it will be some time before this loco comes off the layout to the riptrack for replacement.
James
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Steammodeler
Hurricane Pass Mining & Timber RR Company |
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Sat Sep 01, 2007 8:01 am |
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EM-1
Brakeman
Joined: 25 Jun 2010
Posts: 40
Location: Concord, NH |
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I am guilty for doing this! I've taken all sorts of locomotives built in different materials to make them into something that is either not made at all or hard to find other then re-detailing it to look as if its has the detail mass of brass.
For instance:
This is a Mantua 4-6-2, with a light boiler. Which in fact was modeled/die casted to resemble a B&O P-7 class 4-6-2. Whith that said, I've seen ALOT of these re-done, nicely, not to be really detailed, BUT I sat down with what I have as far as details and began......
This locomotive has the following detail parts materials in it:
>>Brass (as seen in the picture)
>>Die Cast
>>Resin
>>Plastic
>>Antimony Allow
>>Lead
>>Stainless Steel
>>Bondo
Everything is added to the model using Epoxy, of the 60 second type!
So, with that list, it is what I'd consider 99.8% true to life of a B&O P-7e class 4-6-2, #5314.
Here are some more pictures there of the same locomotive:
There are a few details I need to get yet, to add before any painting is done. I'm missing a front end throttle, pop valves, and the headlight casting. (I have the headlight casting in brass) I just have yet to add it and such but thats easy. I'm more looking for the front end throttle casting for this one, as the pop valves, I plan to turn myself and then add them after the boiler is painted, due to the nature of me, making them polished brass instead of painting them.
With that said, I'm known to polish the B&O capitol Dome, on the front of the locomotive, the bell, and the whistle. HOWEVER, I am also getting into polishing the pop valves as well, which all looks good on a finish painted model. |
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Thu Jul 08, 2010 8:28 pm |
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